Yesterday, very early in the morning, Sabine, my new sailing companion arrived in Pape’ete. We meet at 0600 in Pape’ete and drove with tender to MaRe.

A first round of explanations of MaRe:s interior, a cup of tea, long talks, was the start at MaRe. We also did a first boat job together. We moved the slatted bed base back into the aft cabin on PRT side. I can do it myself but with two it’s safer to be done because each slatted bed base is 200 cm x 80 cm x 10 – 15 cm and a boat is not that big.

While I had to wait for proofing of the dough, we took the tender and went towards the outer reef. However, we couldn’t go as far as I hoped. The water gets very shallow pretty quickly and the boomies are getting very dense. We snorkeled a bit. The reef unfortunately here is not as beautiful as the one I saw with OBM in the Raroia atoll of the Tuamotus.

Baking bread, dinner, and I was knocked out.

This narration is not concerning MaRe but Europe.

“I have a dream…” The famous words of Martin Luther King describing a picture of a better world with more humanity, equality, and freedom.

Only 79 years ago Europe was in ruins and ashes. “Ruins and ashes” are the key words describing physical destruction, economic hardship, and social turmoil, and millions of dead people. This was the result of only a few years of right wing government in only 3 countries: Spain, Italy, and foremost Germany.

Now in Europe the right wing parties are gaining a lot of votes. I’m asking myself if there is any country in the world did a right wing brought long term prosperity to it’s people but I can’t find one.

I have a nightmare that the right wing parties are demolishing Europe fulfilling the dream of the war mug Putin.

I have a nightmare that I need a passport to visit my children and grandchildren in Holland.

I have a nightmare that I can’t live the last part of my life traveling with my wife through all countries of a peaceful Europe, which I can reach by boat on rivers and canals.

I have a nightmare that the Europeans forgot about the disaster of war right wing parties brought to Europe.

I have a nightmare that the right wing parties, now supporting each other, turning against each other and we have wars in Europe again.

I have a nightmare that in Europe people have to stretch out there left arm to check if is raining while saying “Heil Putin”.
(Thank you Mr Floegel, my English teacher when I was a teenager, for your words I never will forget about a guy who stretched out his right arm to see if it is raining.)

Yesterday a long term boat job, which took almost 2 month, could be completed.

The gasket between generators’s Kubota diesel engine block and muffler needed to be replaced. Getting the spare parts, partially from CH thanks to Vili, and partially directly from Onan NZ, where replaced a few days ago. Since then I was cleaning the engine room and the generator. A tricky work because I needed to work along a plan to create clean areas to clean other areas. Parts of the enclosure needed to be removed and cleaned in the cockpit.
Since yesterday evening, the genset has its cleaned enclosure back on.

The Volvo engine is cleaned and bigger parts of the engine room as well.

Unfortunately I had to find that the technicians did a bit well completed job with the enclosure. Even screws got lost. I’ll report this to there manager. I paid good money, thus I expect a good job. Fortunately I have experience in attaching the enclosure of the genset, which works as a sounds absorber to reduce the noise of the diesel engine.

Today I’ll clean the rest of the engine room. Once this is done, I’m really happy!

My sailing companion Sabine is already on her way to Pape’ete. She will arrive on the 3rd of July. I’m looking forward to pick her up ashore in Pape’ete and welcome her on board.

It seems the health condition of the viruses, which caused my not so good health status, is turning bad and I’m feeling better. I hope this trend continues.

I spent most of my time at my PC writing emails. Among them a longer one to Taro-san, a sailing friend from Japan. In the early 90s, we sailed together on a 12 m race yacht called “sleeper”. He and I don’t meet very often but when we meet again it’s like we met last time just last week. I hope he can make on MaRe to sail for 2 – 3 weeks with me.

Soon, on July 3rd, my sailing companion Sabine arrives in Tahiti. Until then I want to have MaRe ready for provisioning together and spent a day traveling once around Tahiti. So far I know Pape’ete well but want to see also a bit of what outside this city with a population of 27 000. Small compared to metropolises I lived for years in the past, but big for me now when I live on MaRe.

Accidentally I found an interesting link about Pape’ete and French Polynesia in general:
https://www.britannica.com/place/Papeete

Bread is baked. I have fresh boat made yogurt and have to write only 1 important email tomorrow, thus tomorrow boat jobs are the topic of the day.

Please keep fingers crossed that I’ll be fully or close to fully recovered and the viruses get lost in blue water around MaRe; about 16 m deep.

Recently, after the results of the European elections became known, I wrote a political narration about my very sad thoughts. I was too busy to complete and publish it but it exists as a draft. I might publish it.

In the meantime I caught a cold in paradise. Unfortunately the cold causing viruses are still feeling too good and I’m not good enough. One day I was almost all day long sleeping. This was on Tuesday. On Wednesday, I already had, since days before, the plan to go ashore to pick up the Onan spare parts, which arrived a few days earlier. I also needed to do some other urgent errands ashore.

Among them, a 6 mm aluminum plate in a special shape to be used as a support structure in the very front part of my dinghy. It will enable me to get 2 new lifting eyes about 40 cm forward from the current bow lifting eyes. With these new ones, the distance between the stern and new lifting eyes becomes 2 m. The distance of the davits at MaRe’s stern. This will enable an easier lifting and lowering of the tender and a better access to the hydrogenator when sailing. On Monday I’ll pick the plate.

On Wednesday I could also pick up the refilled gas bottle. This means the second spare tank is filled up on board. On the way from the mobile fuel station, where they arrange for a refill through Tahiti gas, to the about 250 – 300 m away dinghy dock, I had to carry the filled gas bottle. The filled bottle weighs about 25 – 28 kg. Additionally, I had some things in my backpack and carried a 5 l degreaser container in my hand. Heavy burden!
When I passed a parking pickup truck a young lady in her mid to late 20s sat on the loading area and saw me coming closer. She offered her help and I accepted it happily. She took the 5 l degreaser and I could carry the gas bottle better with my 2 hands on a shoulder. We had interesting talks about where from where to etc. It turned out she is from Rikitea, the main settlement of the Gambiers Islands where I first arrived in French Polynesia. If she would have not to go back, we still would be sitting on the pier of the dinghy dock talking…

Back on board, I had to take it easy. The adrenalin push of the needed errands in Pape’ete was gone. I felt tired. Too tired took cook a normal meal.

I made scrambled eggs with onions, garlic, a bit of chorizo and put some cheese after having fried my eggs grandma style. My cousin, who learn this style from her father and I gave this style the name “pushed eggs” and we love them. The best scrambled eggs we can get!!!

For the next day, this was yesterday, I could get the technician for the repair of the Onan genset organized. They came and the genset is running normally again since yesterday.

With some adjustment of my Victron Inverter/Charger unit and the information on how to adjust the output voltage of the genset, having again 220 V on board is perfect and charging of the service batteries works better than years before. 4 technicians in 3 countries did make a proper job in setting up the Onan genset and Victron device properly.
Manutea, an electrical specialist whose phone number I got accidentally, could set up the Victron unit. He also discovered that the output voltage of the Onan genset was too high which created quite some problems in the last year. He showed me how I can adjust the output voltage at the remote switch off the genset at the navigation desk.
Now, I know and can do it my self. However, I hope that I don’t need to make these adjustments again.

So far for now. I’m write one or the other throw-back and look out in the next days. Need to upload this narration and then continue with my dough for bread. Nothing more left on board.

After the second evening and until close to midnight we had strong winds. “Strong” means that the first night we had winds of 20 KN with gusts of 25 KN from southern direction; yesterday evening we had winds from northern direction of around 22 KN and gusts of 29 KN. As these wind are not too be seen in the forecasts, they are a local weather phenomenon. MaRe’s anchor holds.

After exchanging the fuel pump, I did also the maintenance of the outboard motor and completed it with a test run not too far away from MaRe. It turned out the outboard motor runs again like before the diaphragm of the fuel pump became perforated at our edge.

Yesterday came the real test. I went to Pape’ete. It took me only 30 min one way at a bit less than half throttle. With the rental motor it took me 45 min because otherwise it overheated.

The new sunscreens are mounted as well. Here I saw again a difference in mentality. Around 6 month ago I contacted this company, sent them pictures of the material and locks I need including rough measures, and ask if they have such material and the needed locks. All I got was, we will look at your boat when you are here. Nobody bothered to check stocks. When I was finally in Tahiti, a guy came on board to look at the sunscreens, did measurements, and told me they can make it. After I made my down payment they contacted me to say they don’t have the material in white only in grey. 6 month after my first inquiry. When the day before yesterday, 2 people came to mount the screens, they had to use the old snap locks because they don’t have new ones on stock anymore. 6 month after my first inquiry.

Because Onan in Switzerland, where my friend Vili inquired immediately, did not have the needed parts on stock and would need to order to the USA, requiring a delivery time of 2 – 3 weeks to CH, I used Skype and ChatGPT I could break the wall with which Onan protects itself being contacted from outside by email. First I reached a dealer in Auckland. Then, in a second attempt I could even break into Onan NZ. I did this second “break” to find out of they have the needed spare parts on stock in NZ. They have all in stock except some screws and washers and they can sell me the parts directly because of the generator model I have. The screws and washers I have on board. So I pushed things through as fast as possible from my side and begged them to dispatch the parts as soon as the payments by credit card is approved. However, they work in their own pace and thus, the parts will go to DHL Express only on Monday… ETA Tahiti on the 20th instead of the 15th. So much about the speed of processing urgently needed spare parts at Onan.

With the plywood I got through Tevai I could built already a new, more stable and a bit higher “leg extender” for the helm station. I also built the 36 mm thick base plate for the seat. Today I will paint these things with linseed oil and then continue with the work at the seat.

Yesterday I needed to go again to Pape’ete to pickup the fuel pump for my outboard motor and to get the same time a bunch of other materials. Mainly hardware store stuff and marine stuff. Found some things at HYPER BRICO, ACE hardware store, and at Sun Ting Hung Marine, the shop where Tevai works.

He was not there, and I could carry more things. Therefore I’ll go again on Fridays.

At Tevai’s shop, I also got a good idea on how to make a rub rail for my tender with it’s canvas cover. It’s basically a rope of about 25 – 30 mm diameter, which I will have around the side of the tender. It appears to me that the rope protects the critical front corners much better then small but still bulky fenders. Keep fingers crossed that my idea works.

City boy – The noise and exhaust gases soaked air feels and smells terrible. I’m glad that I didn’t get a berth in the Pape’ete Marina upon arrival. It’s incredible noisy being with the boat just 20 m away from one of the main 4-lane streets of Pape’ete. I rather go by my tender once or twice a week to Pape’ete, which takes 45 – 60 mins one way, and spent the rest of my time on board where I can do all, I need to do.

Time to Pape’ete – I hope to make it next time below 30 min because since yesterday early evening, the new fuel pump is fit onto the motor. Test run in the cockpit was fine. Later this morning I will test run the motor attached to the tender.

For me being here is connected to big frustration and to great moments.

Frustration first.

The technician who checked for the damaged part at the generator did not look good enough and found only today, that the the mixer of the exhaust got a crack. He thought it is only the gasket. In German I would now say “haette, haette, Fahrradkette”. the English equivalent could be “shoulda, woulda, coulda” or “if wishes where horses”.

Great moments.

As I need Onan againg spare parts, which I can get through Vili from CH, faster than through every other source, is definitely a great moment. He send me already very fast the first parts which I could pick up already yesterday. Now I sent him an email wiht the newly needed parts and he will get them to me ASAP. Thanks Vili again for your outstanding help.

Beside waiting again for Onan spare parts – the technician confirmed as well that Onan is very slow – I am working on some boat jobs.

The first one I like to mention is the repair of the seat at the helm station. Here is the problem that the wood plates rot under the cover and nothing is to be seen in advance. Fortunately Tevai got me the needed marine plywood and I can work on the repair. A new seat is not an alternative because seats needs to order to somewhere abroad and than brought into Tahiti. Thus, I challenge the repair. I started already yesterday.

I’ll just try to look at the bright side of life! (Not easy sometimes!)

… In the last days. This is mainly due to the PC work I’m doing after 2100 when I have better data credit. This PC work had to do with preparations of the Kiribatis route I will start sailing from early July with Sabine, my sailing companion for a long time. She’s a really experienced sailor who understands the needed when sailing long distances.

However in the morning hours I also had to do a lot of PC work. Now it should get less.

Getting less PC work is mainly due to the fact that I got all needed things triggered and the material/spare parts on board or on the way.

The spare parts for the Onan generator I got yesterday. Thanks to Vili, who organized and send them with DHL, they arrived. Vili’s quick and decisive actions got them on their way very fast. Thanks Vili!!!

The fuel pump for my outboard motor, which was ordered by the service company directly 3 weeks ago is still on its way. The local company needed first to create an DHL account. Then the dealer shipped the part. In this cases case a FedEx shipment would have been faster because DHL ships it from Australia first to a hub in the USA…. My OBM could have shipped the fuel pump from Japan much faster. Fortunately I have a small rental outboard motor.

And then there was Tevai again. I needed marine plywood. One shop had what I need, but does cut a whole board into pieces. A whole board I can’t transport at all. Another shop, which would have cut the board didn’t have the needed material on stock. So Tevai took action and got me the board from again another shop, brought it to his home, cut it into the pieces I need, brought it to the airport marina where I could put it in the tender. The airport marina is only 3 min away from MaReb going to Pape’ete takes me 45 min. Tevai came with his girlfriend Cleo to the marina and I invited them an board. There we had a long and interesting conversation. They are very nice people!

Both of them have a very interesting background. Cleo, is a daughter of a French father and a mother from Cabo Verde. Parents came once to Tahiti, mother felt in love with Tahiti and they stayed.

Tevai is from Mo’orea. For school he came to Tahiti and stayed for work. Jobs are only available in the places like Tahiti and here mainly in Pape’ete. Tevai lives on Tahiti whereas his father commutes daily from Mo’orea to Tahiti for work.

Tevai, as he was born and grew up on Mo’orea, has still a strong connection to the Tahitian culture and language. Cleo who was born in Tahiti to French native speaking parents does not know Tahitian.

Tahiti really is a melting pot of people from all over the world.

Tevai is only the short version of his polynesian name Tevaiaeta.

Having been given the chance to meet Tevai is definitely one of the highlights of my looong sail from Europe to Japan and back.

I got in contact with Tevai when I looked in the Marquesas for a new tender, because my old one was at its very sudden end of life time. He provided me very efficiently all the information I needed for my decision, which tender to buy and I bought a CL 310 from him. He arranged shipment to Hiva-Oa perfectly. I really was very happy.

One day, I had a question about something else and asked him if he might provide the needed information. He did immediately.

He also encouraged me to ask other things I need to know.

In the mean time, I therefore asked him several things and got always a quick answer.

When I came with my OBM to Tahiti, we both went to his office to pick up the canvas for my tender. We both were surprised about the personality of Tevai. Smiling, friendly, helpful, solution oriented.

In the meantime he offered me even help if needed at his home. As I’m just a foreign sailor being currently on Tahiti before sailing on, his help and support is simply outstanding. Therefore, Tevai is a highlight on my looong sail from from Europe to Japan and back and will stay in my, and my OBM’s memory for the rest of our lives.

Tevai, thank you very much for being the wonderful person you are and all the help you give to me.